More Sunscreen Options???

Skin cancer is the most common form of cancer in the United States, with more than 2 million new cases diagnosed each year—many of which could have been prevented by proper protection from the sun.

Young woman in sunglasses putting sun cream on shoulder

The two main types of harmful rays are:

UV-B – is primarily responsible for causing sunburn

UV-A – penetrate the skin more deeply, and are also known to play a major role in skin wrinkling and skin cancer.

Ideally, we should protect the skin against both types of UV radiation. Here are a list of chemicals that are either approved by the FDA or awaiting approval that can protect against both types of rays.

Approved in the United States

  • Chemical filters (UV-A protection): avobenzone, dioxybenzone, meradimate, oxybenzone, sulisobenzone.
  • Chemical filters (UV-B protection): aminobenzoic acid, cinoxate, ensulizole, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene, padimate O, trolomine salicylate.
  • Physical filters (broad spectrum): titanium dioxide, zinc oxide.

The FDA has not expanded their list of approved active sunscreen ingredients since 1999 because sunscreen is considered a medication and must meet standards for safety and therapeutic effect.  Therefore, there is a long list of sunscreen ingredients that are awaiting approval.

Awaiting FDA Approval

  • Amiloxate: Applied for approval in 2002. UV-B filter. Currently used in Asia and Europe.
  • Bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S): Applied for approval in 2005. The most effective broad-spectrum chemical filter on the market internationally.  Currently used in Australia and Europe.
  • Bisoctrizole (Tinosorb M): Applied for approval in 2005. Broad-spectrum hybrid filter that can both absorb and reflect UV, with minimal skin penetration. Currently used in Australia and Europe.
  • Drometrizole triziloxane (Mexoryl XL): Applied for approval in 2009. Broad-spectrum chemical filter.
  • Ecamsule (Mexoryl SX): Applied for approval in 2007. Broad-spectrum chemical filter. Used internationally since 1991.
  • Enzacamene: Applied for approval in 2002. UV-B filter. Currently used in Canada and Europe as a sunscreen at 4% concentration, and in lip balm, lipstick, and moisturizer.
  • Iscotrizinol: Applied for approval in 2005. UV-B filter with a small amount of UV-A protection. Currently used in Asia and Europe.
  • Octyl triazone: Applied for approval in 2002. UV-B filter with extremely high protection and good water resistance. Currently used in Aisa and Europe

Where Are We Now?

Currently, there is a public push for the FDA to review at least some of its background applications for new sunscreen ingredients. This is known as the Sunscreen Innovation Bill (S.2141 and H.R. 4250). If passed, this bill will make two primary changes to the approval process:

1. It would institute an eight-month deadline for the FDA to approve or deny an application.

2. It would no longer require the FDA to issue a new regulation for the use of a newly approved sunscreen ingredient.

These changes would certainly go a long way toward encouraging innovation in this important area of skin care and protection. In the meantime, when it comes to new sunscreen ingredients, the wait continues.


Source: ASCP Skin Deep July/Aug 2014 The Sunscreen Waiting Game
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Preventing Shaving Bumps In Male Clients

Shaving Bumps are a foreign body inflammatory reaction involving papules (solid elevation of skin with no fluid that can vary in color) and pustules (small bumps in the skin that are filled with fluid or pus) on the beard area (the lower face and neck) of men.  Rasieren


Shaving bumps are caused when the sharply pointed hair from a recent shave briefly surfaces from the skin and re-enters a short distance away and when methods of very close shaving result in hair cut below the surface.  This happens when the skin  is pulled taunt while shaving, shaving against the grain, plucking hair with tweezers, and using double- or triple-bladed razors.

If you have a bad case of shaving bumps, its best if you can to grow the beard for 30 days.   When you are ready to shave again follow these tips:

  • Place a warm towel over the face for a few minutes before shaving in order to open the pores, or take a warm shower before shaving. This softens the skin and the hair. Use a moisturizing shaving lather or try a pre shave guard product that  has antibacterial properties and allow it to sit on the skin for 2-3 minutes before shaving. This will soften the beard and, once the hair is cut, will result in a more rounded tip to the hair, which is less likely to re-enter the skin.
  • If using a razor, select a single-edged, foil guarded or safety razor. Double- or triple-bladed razors shave too closely and should not be used.
  • Make sure the razor is thoroughly rinsed free of shaving lather each time it is used.
  • Shave in the direction of the follicle, not against it.
  • Do not stretch the skin.
  • Do not puncture or tweeze affected areas.
  • Electric razors can be used but use properly. The recommended technique with a three-head rotary electric razor is to keep the heads slightly off the surface of the skin and to shave in a slow, circular motion. Do not press the electric razor close to the skin or pull the skin taut, because this results in too close of a shave.
  • Only use clean towels to avoid the spread of bacteria or fungi.

Following these tips will help minimize or get rid of shave bumps.  Consider getting a facial and having an esthetician evaluate and make recommendations for your skin type.


Adapted from July 2014 Skin Inc. Preventing Pseudofolliculitis
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Say NO to the no!no! Hair Pro?

As a professional waxer, I often am asked if it makes sense for clients to wax their own hair, laser body hair, or to buy a product they have seen advertised such as the no!no!.  I don’t usually advocate waxing your own hair, I’ve seen and heard horror stories from those who have tried it especially in the bikini area.  I think lasers have a place in the hair removal arena, I tell my clients to get more than one consultation and then decide if it is for them.  Regarding the no!no! I did some research and have summarized some of my findings below.

Based on reviewing comments on the internet about the no!no! Hair Pro, here are some findings:

PRO 3 - no!no!

Source: Amazon

The no!no! Hair Pro claims to use thermicon technology as a painless and affordable hair removal alternative to waxing and shaving. If it worked as advertised it would be a great product. However, numerous sources from Amazon reviewers to Consumer Reports and hair removal specialists agree that that the device has no use beyond that of a cute gimmick.

Here are highlights of their advertisement:

  • No Pain: Like waxing & other methods.

Reality: According to a reviewer on that gave the product 1 star, “And for those claiming that I didn’t give it enough time. This machine did not remove the hair. It just cut half of the hair off and left stubble, even though the hair was the proper length. It never removed it not even with the buffer. The buffer had a similar material to a nail file. So, I have no idea how that would remove hair. The only thing the machine left was burn marks. On my upper lip and legs while, I had it on the LOWEST setting. So, I would not recommend this product. I was left with stress, anger, stubble and burn marks.” JJ, Amazon Reviewer. 9512/9657 people found his review helpful.

  • Affordable: Compared to other professional methods

Reality: The no!no! Hair Pro currently retails for $245 on Amazon. This is the price of multiple waxing sessions.

  • Easy to Use: Just glide over skin

Reality:  “If you’re the type of person who wants the hair gone immediately, no! no! will disappoint you. Forget the no! no! commercial that has a man instantly removing hair. The commercial is totally misleading. It doesn’t work that fast.” Gerrie Summers,

  • It’s Guaranteed: Or your money back!

Reality:  The no!no! Hair Pro customer service team must be quite busy then. According to the results of a Consumer Reports study, panelists used words such as “prickly” and  “hairy” to describe how their legs felt after the no! no!   All six said the treated leg was never hair or stubble-free during the six weeks of testing.  Something else that panelists noticed: the smell of burned hair. The final straw? Using the no! no! took far longer than shaving—up to 25 minutes per leg.  None of the panelists said they’d want to buy the device, though some described it as “cute.”

As a waxer I am always skeptical about hand held devices that claim to remove body hair.  If it was that easy, I would be unemployed.  In order to stop hair from growing permanently the bulb from where the hair or hairs originate from has to be disabled.  This is what hair removal lasers do and the FDA prohibits them from stating that it is permanent hair removal.

The choice is yours!

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